Writing in the Independent on Sunday (March 26, 2000) in London, journalist Robert Fisk compared US president Bill Clinton's arrival in Pakistan to a movie scene in which time travellers discover an empty city whose people had died of a nuclear disaster. The scene was a far cry from the carefully orchestrated crowds that joyously greet him - and other western 'world leaders' - in most places they visit.

"There was something almost sinister," Fisk wrote, "about president Clinton's cortege sweeping at 60mph down the empty autobahn from the airport with its carloads of security guards, tyres hissing at the road junctions, yet not a soul to welcome the motorcade, not a single Pakistani road-sweeper, not a single shopper, not even a beggar to note in passing."

The cleansing of Islamabad's streets before Clinton's arrival was at his own demand, as a condition for his deigning to visit Pakistan at all; such was his fear of being executed (becoming the victim of a 'terrorist attack') at the hands of Islamic mujahideen. It was a sobering reflection of the Americans' own awareness of the hatred that Muslims all over the world have for them.

The ghostly run through Pakistan's streets followed an equally bizarre flight from Delhi and arrival in Islamabad. When Clinton arrived at Delhi airport, there was a large US Air Force C61 transporter standing on the runway, apparently waiting to carry him to Islamabad. Instead of boarding this aircraft, however, Clinton and his entourage, after their formalities, ducked behind it, where two small white executive jets were standing. One of these was marked with the US flag, the other was plain. Members of Clinton's guards and entourage boarded the marked aircraft while Clinton slipped on to the plain one, hardly noticed in the crowd.

At Islamabad, the marked aircraft landed first and pulled up to the reception committee, limousine and other arrangements made for Clinton. Security guards disembarked, followed by a tall, burly blonde figure, looking like Clinton, but actually another security guard intended to draw the fire of any waiting terrorists.

Meanwhile, Clinton's aircraft slipped into the airport, pulled up a little way away, and the leader of the most powerful country in the world slipped ignominiously into a second limousine, hardly noticed by the world's waiting media.

The scene was eerily reminiscent of an imperial leader visiting one of the more unruly parts of his empire, where the natives are yet to be fully tamed, such as the Russian generals' nervous early forays into Johar-Gala (Grozny). The Americans may pretend that they are loved and welcomed everywhere they go, but the truth is plain for those willing to see it.

Muslimedia: April 1-15, 2000

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